Tropical Writer

Thoughts on Living in Bali

April 21st, 2008 Posted in Travel

This article was printed in Kabar Magazine (Jakarta, Indonesia) in the June-July 2005 issue.

Thoughts On Living in Bali

Some expatriates consider it paradise and, as they might say, thank the gods every day for the good fortune of being able to live in Bali. Others arrive with high hopes, ambitious plans, dreams of palm trees, blue surf, and friendly Balinese, and then become frustrated with the cultural differences and end up leaving bitter and poorer.

For people who can adapt to the significant personal and cultural differences, occasional confusing dealings with the Indonesian bureaucracy, lunatic drivers, the lack of a reliable infrastructure, and increasing pollution (depending on where in Bali you decide to live), Bali offers a truly unique culture with delightful surprises daily. There are lovely beaches (but certainly not the best in Indonesia or Southeast Asia), unique cultural experiences, a warm and pleasant climate, a resident expatriate community, a language that can be learned relatively easily, and, of course, the Balinese people.

Bali is changing as Western culture increasingly intrudes on the traditional culture, but outside of the tourist ghettos of Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak, traditional culture continues to hold its own. You might find that all of your neighbors are glued to the popular dramas on television each night, but if someone is holding a ceremony with dances and a shadow puppet play, they’ll turn off the TV and get out and enjoy the festivities

For expatriate families, there are several international schools in Bali although they can be rather costly: Bali International School  is the oldest international school on the island and has an excellent reputation; Australian International School  has a curriculum designed especially for Australian students; Canggu Community School , is a non-profit private school serving both the international and local communities in the South Bali area and uses the British National Curriculum and employs certified foreign teachers; Sunrise School , is another school in Bali that it is located in Kerobokan in the south of Bali – its website says that it has an international staff and curriculum, an IT room, a library, and art and science room, a small student-teacher ratio, and covers the years Kindergarten to Grade 8. The website has a map. For families who cannot afford the cost of an international school, it is possible to send children to the local schools, but teaching is in Indonesian, and the facilities are generally of low quality.

While potential expatriates don’t like to think of such unpleasant things as ill health or accidents, living in the tropics entails a certain amount of health hazards. During my fifteen years in Indonesia, I have contracted typhoid, amoebic dysentery, and malaria. Additionally, I’ve been in one semi-serious motorcycle accident, been stung by a scorpion, had my son fall out of a tree and suffer a triple fracture of his arm requiring surgery and the implant of three metal pins, and had my mother and father in-laws suffer major heart attacks. Then, too, my wife has had four children here. So what about medical facilities? I have an old tourist guide from the mid-1980s, which states that there are no x-ray machines on Bali. Fortunately, today medical facilities in Bali are much more developed than they were 15 years ago. There are local hospitals equipped to deal with most basic emergencies and illnesses. Some hospitals like Kasih Ibu in Denpasar are equipped for procedures that are more complicated. My son’s operation for his triple fracture was done at Kasih Ibu and, while expensive, the work was excellent as was the post-operative treatment. The south of Bali has international clinics like International SOS and the Bali International Medical Center (BIMC). For life-threatening illnesses, most expatriates fly to Singapore that is only a two-hour flight away. Medical insurance can be purchased which covers evacuation if necessary. Dental facilities in the south of Bali are quite acceptable, and a number of my students have had braces done in Bali. Some expatriates (like me), however, prefer to fly to Singapore or Bangkok for dental treatment. Bangkok, in fact, has an outstanding hospital that expatriates from all over the world use for yearly check-ups.

What is the cost of living like in Bali?

That all depends on what your lifestyle is like. The more Western you get, the higher your overhead will be. Electricity and telephone charges are relatively high. If you plan on having a large house with lots of lighting, you are going to be paying out some serious money. If you crave a lot of Western foods and material items, you will be paying more for them than you would back home. On the other hand, if you blend your lifestyle in with local realities, shop in local markets, and keep the overhead down, you can get by on a relatively modest income. For example, my family of six and a ravenous German Shepard gets by comfortably on about $1,500 a month.

Most expatriates have at least one Balinese employee, a pembantu (maid); many also have a driver and gardener as well. The cost of household help is quite reasonable. You can expect to pay between $40 to $70 a month for each person depending on their duties and experience. Many employers supplement their staff’s pay with contributions to their children’s education, gifts for ceremonies, and help with medical expenses when necessary.

What kinds of material goods are available there?

Bali has a variety of shopping opportunities. You can get all of the usual Asian fruits and vegetables in Bali like durian, rambutan, and jackfruit. Seafood is plentiful if you live by the coast although the cost for things like prawns has gone up a lot over the past decade as more and more of the catch goes to hotels and restaurants. The Balinese aren’t supposed to eat beef, and the Muslims aren’t supposed to eat pork. Both are available for the expatriate. If you regularly eat local dishes like nasi goring (fried rice) and mie goring (fried noodles), you’ll find that your food bill will be quite low.

Bali has the superstore, Makro, which sells just about everything. It’s a supermarket with a stock similar to what you would find in a Western supermarket. It also carries electronic goods like televisions and microwaves and music systems, tools, toys, clothes, and office supplies. You’ll find it full of Westerners buying items in bulk. Bali now has a number of computer stores, and it is cheaper to buy your computer and peripherals here than bring them in as customs charges an excessively high duty on imported electronics. If you really have the shakes and need to do some Western shopping check out the new malls down in the Kuta tourist area – there is even an Ace Hardware store there now.

While Bali doesn’t have cable tv, it does have a subscription satellite company, Indovision, which receives approximately 40 channels. You can buy inexpensive televisions or the more expensive large models. We recently purchased a 43-inch television for approximately $1000.

Transportation is another expense. The motorbike is the most common vehicle on the road. A 100 cc Honda goes for around $1200. Make sure that you get an international license before you leave your home country. Automobiles are relatively expensive in Bali, although several new inexpensive models have been released and can be purchased for as low as $10,000. Driving in Bali can be a harrowing experience, and if you are not a skilled driver, it would be worth your money (and your life) to hire a driver.

Can You Get Internet Access in Bali?

Yes, there are a number of ISPs in Bali. Generally, telephone lines in Bali are of poor quality and do not transmit data quickly. Internet access is relatively inexpensive. Some Internet Service Providers are: Wasantara net, Indosatnet, Meganet, and Indointernet. Internet access is best in the south of Bali. Additionally, there are many internet cafes in Bali.

Are there employment opportunities?

There are very few opportunities for employment in Bali. The Indonesian government is very strict about allowing foreigners to take jobs that Indonesians can do, and with the high level of unemployment that is only as it should be. That being said, if you are a hotel professional, an English language teacher, or a certified teacher from one of the Western countries, you may be able to find employment in Bali. My experience is in the teaching field, and positions for teachers are few and the competition is very stiff. The compensation is also considerably lower than what you would expect in your home country or another less desirable place, but it is more than enough to get by on.

What are the laws pertaining to owning property?

Stories are legion about foreigners who have been cheated out of their money and land when buying property in Bali. People tend to get starry-eyed and act with less caution than they would if there were buying property in their home country. You need to proceed slowly and with caution.

The laws have been slightly modified recently which offer more options to the foreigner who wishes to buy or lease property in Bali. The laws are complex enough that I will not try to explain them here. There are several websites that detail the regulations of property acquisition. The one thing that all of them have in common is their insistence that the buyer beware and find legal representation. A few web sites to consult are:

 Wonderful Bali, and Bali Information. 

Is there an available supply of housing, and what are the costs?

These days there is a plethora of housing options available in Bali that range from $1,000 a year Balinese-style houses to rent to million dollar villas to buy. It is now possible to find a house to fit any budget. A number of real estate companies have moved into the Balinese market over the past decade. A few examples (which I am only listing, not endorsing) are: Bali Karma Properties which sells and leases land and villas, as well as building swimming pools,etc., Bali Property Information and Tropical Homes: Bali’s Best Properties which is a very upscale real estate company. In addition to selling and leasing incredibly expensive luxury homes, Tropical Homes also has two bedroom apartments selling in the range of $80,000 to $135,000. While using these companies obviates the difficulties of looking for a place to live on your own, they tend to charge extremely high prices (compared with what you might be able to negotiate on your own, not to mention what an Indonesian would pay for the same property). An example is a five-room house located in the less popular north of Bali which has a Balinese-style bathroom and which lists for about $42,000.

What are the Rules for Foreigners Who Want to Live in Bali?

Indonesia changed its visa policy this February. Previously, tourists from many countries were granted a free 60 visa on arrival. The new law offers tourists from a limited number of countries visas on arrival for 30 days and at the cost of $25. Tourists from other countries must apply for a visa in their country before they arrive in Indonesia. It is possible to obtain 60 days visas for an additional fee if you apply in your home country. However, all of these visas are not appropriate for the potential expatriate. Many expatriates hold a social visa that is good for six months, but must be renewed monthly at the immigration office. Applicants for a social visa need an Indonesian sponsor. These visas are relatively inexpensive, but the monthly renewal can be time-consuming and irritating. A favored option is to use a visa service like Bali IDE that will take care of the paperwork you need to obtain the visa and then renew it for you monthly. There is a new retirement visa for people 55 years of age and older. Applicants for this type of visa need to have proof of a pension plan or sufficient funds in a bank account, health insurance, life insurance, proof of residence in a designated tourist area, and at least one Indonesian employee. Additionally there are several other visas – business, working permit – that can be obtained with the correct documentation and fees.

General Information on Bali

The following are a few web sites that have a wealth of information about living on Bali:

• Bali Blog - this is a daily blog written by an expatriate living in Bali. You can find information here about buying a car in Bali, real estate, shopping, hotels, and a variety of other things.
• Cyberbali.com - is my website about Bali, Papua, Sumbawa and Pakistan.
• Bali Portal - has an incredible number of links to web sites about Bali.

Living in Bali can be the experience of a lifetime, and there are many expatriates who have lived there blissfully for years. But like with any major lifestyle decision, caution needs to be exercised. I can’t tell you how many foreigners I have met over the past 15 years in Bali who arrived lock, stock and barrel and were gone within a year because they weren’t prepared for all the realities of living in Indonesia because in spite of what some expatriates like to pretend, Bali is still part of Indonesia with all of the good and bad that that situation encompasses. Come and visit, study the culture, do your research, talk to long-term expatriates, monitor the Bali forums on the internet, and then make your move if you feel that Bali is really for you. It could be the best thing that you’ve ever done for yourself.